Women’s beauty occupied a strange space during the World Wars. In particular, during World War II, the government and cosmetic companies propagandized beauty, grooming and makeup as a patriotic duty. Maintaining a sense of glamour in day-to-day life was a way to retain dignity, bravery (much like swiping on war paint), and, in a time of fear, worry and sadness, a little bit of fun. Even when supplies were no longer available to purchase, ads continued, asking women to use their makeup supplies wisely but never neglect their beauty.
Elizabeth Arden was approached in 1940 to create lipstick to perfectly match the red piping on women’s military uniforms. Thus women were issued an official military kit of matching “Montezuma Red” lipstick, cream blush and nail polish.
'A woman needs cosmetics to look her best, and only when she looks her best can she feel and do her best' insisted Vogue in 1942.
During war limitation of supplies order cut cosmetics production. Metal casting was needed for armaments, petroleum, alcohol and other essential beauty ingredients were commandeered for the war effort.
Once a women’s closely hoarded stash of makeup was gone, alternatives had to be found. Lipstick could be replaced with a beetroot lip stain, boot-polish used as mascara and chalk-based powder and also margarine-based foundation was made available by less-reputable sources.
WAR PACKAGING
There may have been a war on, but companies continued producing cosmetics and simply cut back on the number of materials they used for their containers, adding a note explaining the ‘Wartime Package’ and the fancy packaging was reduced to basic cardboard containers.
CHANEL - POUDRE N°5
Chanel continued to produce cosmetics during the war, but they advertised the fact that they had to cut back on the number of materials used by labelling them 'wartime packages'.
BOURJOIS - EVENING IN PARIS
Bourjois's Evening in Paris Rouge opened up to reveal an emergency note: 'We regret that owing to wartime restrictions PUFF's are unobtainable.'
COTY- AIRSPUn
Coty's Air Spun powder was sold in a simple buff-coloured container inscribed 'Special War Pack' or 'Temporary Presentation... identical quality and quantity as the original box.
It may not have looked very pretty but at least the content was genuine!
Post-war compacts
HENRIETTE - MILITARY HAT
The Henriette Figural Officer Hat was given to women by their sweetheart before they left for war, women would use this compact and be reminded of their loved one.
According to my research, the version above was the most popular produced by Henriette, they also made them in two other versions, some were also made of Sterling Silver & Gold plated metal from brands like The Napier co. which are much rarer to find.
HERE ARE A FEW OTHER STUNNING POST WAR PIECES
American women lived through the war while caring for and worrying about loved ones far from home. By the end of World War II, more than 19 million women were in the workforce and 350,000 women had served in the US Armed Forces.
Post-war, women turned to marriage or to civilian jobs. The Army returned to the male-dominated field it was before the war. Married women were released from service sooner at the end of the war, so they could return home before their husbands to ensure the home was ready when he returned from the front. Despite being largely unrecognized for their wartime efforts in the forces, the participation of women in World War II allowed for the founding of permanent women's forces.
We can say makeup was one of their weapons that helped empower them, which played a big role when they needed to find that inner strength.
Whenever you wear Red Lipstick do you feel empowered?
Yours truly,
Mélanie
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